Each time Kommetjie pro surfer Matt Bromley charges a big wave, he places himself in God’s hands. “There’s a movie, In God’s Hands … that’s literally how it feels when you jump off the boat or step off the land and into the water,” he says.
Matt, 25, describes big wave surfing as “paddling into huge waves, which are like mountains coming at you”. His most terrifying experience was in Portugal last year when a 40- to 50-foot wave pounded him. Humility is crucial, says Matt, who is motivated by his faith.
“Things go bad when you think you’re bigger than the ocean, or too good. You’re going out into these powerful waves that are far greater than you. There is only one winner and that’s the ocean.
“I’ve been given this ability to overcome fear and charge these massive waves where I feel at peace – it’s like God’s watching over me. I definitely wouldn’t be a big wave surfer if it wasn’t for my faith. I believe this is my purpose and my calling.”